Gold Belt Tour

A Mountain Bikin' Experience!!

Fresh snow on the high peaks in the distance as I leave Canon City behind.

Something a little different this time, a mountain bike tour up in the Rockies. Starting in Canon City, Colorado, and heading up the (my phrase) infamous Shelf Road to the gold mining towns of Cripple Creek and Victor, and then back down the old rail route of the Cripple Creek and Florence Railroad, and back to Canon City. Leaving the motel in Canon City, I immediately started climbing as soon as I turned left out of the driveway. Originally, I was planning to stay at the only haunted hotel in Victor, but changed my mind and figured I could loop it instead as my time was somewhat limited. Shelf road starts out paved, and easy grades through some ranching country starting up the canyon.

I was already about 5 miles into the ride when I came upon this sign ...... it didn't seem too bad... But then, I didn't really know what was in store for me yet.

After about nine miles up the canyon, the road turned into a righteous mountain bikin' road...

Yours Truly heading up the Shelf Road.

As you can see, there are no guard rails anywhere, and the drop-off is immediate, and a long ways down. It's still gentle here yet.

Looking back the way I came.

Ah, yes ..... I think things are going to be getting interesting from here on.

Like this, maybe ....... This little hill was typical of the rest of the ten miles up the canyon. When I arrived at this part, I was already in my lowest mountain bike gear (22/34) and was unable to climb any further..... it was hike-a- bike time. I thought these forays into walking my bike were tough. I almost couldn't stand, and my walking pace was slow. Believe me when I say that pictures just don't do it justice. Of course, altitude came into play here as well, and the fact that I couldn't just slow down any past the 1 1/2 mph I was already travelling to lighten the load on my lungs a bit .... at least without falling over.

This is a view of Window rock, up above the road, a natural arch about three quarters of the way up.

Window Rock from the other side.

After 30 miles of climbing, hardly a down anywhere, I was getting crampy, the legs were sore .......and.... it was 12:30pm by then, and I was starving. So, down into town I went, looking for a place to eat.

Victor is an old Gold mining town from the 1800's that hasn't gotten modern like Cripple Creek. For one thing, they don't allow gambling. Cripple Creek has as many casinos as residents, and for me anyway, it has ruined the town, Victor is still a quaint little old-fashioned historical town, virtually unchanged from it's heyday. As I'm rolling through town I spy a town constable ....... if anyone knows where a good place to eat is....it'd be the town cop! "Hey officer" .... he turns around..... "Is there a decent cafe in town".  "Sure, just go down to the next block and turn right, you'll see it, it's a bakery, but they serve sandwichs"....... "OK, thanks" And so....that's how I found this.....

And inside ...... I found THIS!

I did all I could do to finish it, but there was a half pound of roast beef, plus all the veggies, and I had to leave a couple of bites. This being a bakery, the bread was still fresh from the oven. A half loaf of fresh baked bread, split, and filled with what ever he had. It was yummy. He was from Germany, and was a bicyclist. He rides round trip to Cripple Creek every so often (12 miles, paved) on his heavy touring type bike. He thought I must be Superman for coming up Shelf Road. Made me feel good anyway. It was tough, probably one of the toughest, longest climbs I've ever done. Anyway, after a full belly, and some nice conversation, I departed. "Be careful about going down Phantom Canyon, been a lot of bear sightings on that road lately".... "Oh, OK, thanks".... And, Off I went.

This is the town of Victor after leaving and starting up the Phantom Canyon Road. One of the mines is evident up above. Victor still has a couple of operating mines. I read in a booklet in the bakery that one of the mines has taken out 930 million ounces of gold.

 Stopped to take a picture of the Aspen turning color ....

And while I was putting my camera away, a jeep came down from the road I was turning up. "Is this Phantom Canyon Road?" I asked.....    "Yes, it is, just go up here about two miles and turn right, and you'll be on it". "Thanks", I replied.  "It's mostly downhill all the way to US 50" he said ..."Should be an easy trip if you live through it"..... Ah....wait a minute here.... "Live through it?" "Yeah, saw a sow with two cubs, yearlings from the look of them about five miles back, right on the road, and another lone bear about halfway down ...... well ......have a nice trip now"  ..... "Yeah, thanks, I'm sure I will"......Apparently, there have been a lot of bear sightings there lately because of the dry summer according to the local newspaper. It seems the bears really haven't been able to find enough to forage on to build enough fat for the long winter's sleep. Aw, Hell..... they wouldn't want to chew on an old fat bicyclist anyway.....  Anyway....still had a few miles of gentle climbs (about 3%) until I topped out and started down, and it was just soooo pretty.....

It was about here, I'd just had about all the up-hill I ..... and my legs could take. Bad leg cramps. Sit down on the road, stretch, hurt, stand and stretch....stretch too far....ahhh...there.... finally, relief. Stayed there a couple more minutes ..... it was just soooo pretty anyway, and when I got back on the bike, I could pedal without any more problems. The top was only a mile and one half anyway. Topped out around 10,000 feet before starting that long, long downhill.

Phantom Canyon road was very washboardy on the upper part, and hard on the bike, even with the mountain bike suspension, but as I got down in the narrower part with the tight blind corners, and the single track road (one car- one way), the washboard went away..... the cars couldn't go fast enought to knock it out. Still.... this is the route to take uphill for any sane rider, gentle grades for 25 miles or so, nothing past about 5%, and that only the last couple miles in the  tight switchbacks near the top, most of it around 3-4%, steady grade, all the way. It IS dangerous .... there are blind corners, and the road is narrow with steep dropoffs.

But, there are also cool tunnels ......

A rugged interior. A good example of hardrock tunneling.

As well as several bridges, a couple looked original.

Heavy wooden planking on this one, well worn!

There was always a danger of falling rocks from above in the narrow canyon, DEFINITELY....wear your helmet!

There were a couple of rest stops along the way that were located in the area of old coaling and water stops for the trains. A welcome relief, indeed.

And so.....finish dropping down the canyon, another tunnel, a couple more bridges, and finally back to civilization.

The Abbey... a Catholic Monestery and winery. This is right in Canon City.

They grew their own grapes, and had their own winery. A very impressive place. They offer tours, but I was too late that day, and wasn't staying, but leaving early in the morning. Maybe another time. I understand they have wine tasting at the winery........

Just a few more miles, and I was back. 62 miles total, it was a tough, but rewarding ride. Certainly a different type of ride for me, but I'm so glad I decided to do it. Long drive up there, and sore muscles the day after yet. The legs hurt from the trip up, and the shoulders, arms, back and hands from the trip down, so I had a well rounded ache all over. Didn't miss much of me. Would I do it again. Well.....the answer is kind of like this. Going up Shelf, by the time I had gotten to Victor, the road almost defeated me ...... but stubborness won out......barely! It was a close thing, but there'll be no re-match. A smart rider knows when it's time to rest on his laurels. The reward was a mexican dinner at a local restaurant. The dinner was so-so.....BUT....I got a chance to drink a couple of Fat Tire Ales. Been wanting to try them for as long as they've been advertizing, but they don't sell in Oklahoma. Got my chance..... good beer, stout, with a lot of hops and flavor, and a pretty good kick.
Oh yeah......did I get ate by a bear?....... didn't even see one, but that was alright by me.