Badlands Wanderings

September 15, 2015

Fulfilling a dream of several years now I decided to take a big trip this year and head for the Mickelson Trail in the Black Hills of South Dakota. There was no reason not to include a couple of other side trips as well. Several years ago I first heard about The Cowboy Trail winding across northern Nebraska, and thought it would be interesting. The trail itself is almost 200 miles in length, and I didn't have time in my schedule to ride the whole thing, but I could find time to stop in Valentine and ride a small bit of it. It almost seems, though, that I may have bit off a bit more than I could chew with the 700 mile first day. It's been a long time since I've put in that many miles in one day, and I was very tired when I arrived at Valentine at 6:30pm, but still determined to ride a bit of the trail. So, even though it was 95 degrees out and the wind was at 30 gusting to 45, I decided, "What the Heck" ..... I'm going anyway. It was short .... just 9 miles total, but I can say that I've ridden on the Cowboy Trail. 

  
 With the strong headwind and heading uphill, 8mph was all I could manage.

The big trestle from a distance. Long and high. Carried the freight across the Niobrara River, a wild, untamed and historical river through northern Nebraska. Now, it carries runners, hikers and bicycles. 

 The trail is rather pretty through here with the pines and cedars. As you can see from the tracks, the trail can get a little soft at times

 Guess who on the big bridge.

 Long ways down!

 4 1/2 miles out, and 4 1/2 miles back to the motel, I was ready for dinner and a shower and bed. Tomorrow it's on to the Badlands of South Dakota. 
After a good night's rest I felt much better, and a two hour drive later, I arrived in Interior, South Dakota and the entrance to the Badlands National Park. Driving to the Visitor's Center to unload my bike and start up Cedar Pass to start my ride.

 Starting up Cedar Pass. I was warned by Park Rangers that a lot of cyclists misjudge this pass and have a bit of trouble making it up. I kept it in the big ring and didn't have a bit of trouble. 6% to 7% with a short bit of 10% and a mile and one half total. After about three quarters of a mile it drops down to about 4% for the remainder. It's steepest at the start. This year, however, they had a new twist ....... road construction, one lane closed. The flag people and drivers of other vehicles were very patient however, and I made it through the short quarter mile lane closure at 5mph. The picture below is the start of Cedar Pass from the visitor center.

Looking wayyy down there, you can make out the visitor center.

Made it to the top

 Such an unusual terrain, you might be on the moon.

More climbing before my turn off onto gravel

 Wind is a'blowin'

 I took the "Old Northwest Road" off U.S. 240 right at the top of the pass, then proceeded north, downhill with the wind at my back, until the road made a sweeping turn to the east and back to the highway where I returned via blacktop into the wind and uphill. Hard ride back, not the best planning, but when you are vacationing, you take it as it comes. Do not forget your receipt or in my case, your Golden Age Passport or you will pay again getting back into the park on the return leg.

 The gravel road at times get's a bit swoopy.

Almost missed these two ....... but they hadn't missed me ... 

 I did bootleg a short ride in and out on a hiking trail. Not really supposed to do this, but there was no one around, so I snuck in a shorty. Mountain bikes are prohibited on hiking trails within the National Park boundary. Shhhhh .....

 I wouldn't want to meet up with this one while walking through the grass, I don't hear well enough to hear the rattle. This one, however is stuffed and behind glass in the Visitor Center, and is perfectly safe.

 My short 28 mile ride is done here and now it's down the road to Scenic, South Dakota. Below is the rip-snortin' town of Scenic, South Dakota, for sale a few years back for $799,000. Still for sale I think.

 The Long Horn Saloon, the sign even tells which Indian Tribes are allowed in there. Click on the picture and it'll come full size.

 The Calaboose. If you look in the back, you can still see the bunk frame and springs. I think the thought of spending any length of time in there would make me a very honest boy ....

 The town motel ...... Maybe run by a fellow named Bates?

 Four miles south of town on the "Bombing Range Road" is "Sheep Mountain Table Road". My destination for the remainder of my Badlands Tour. Drove a few hundred yards up the road and found a pull out where I could park. Unloaded my bike and started up this ..

That washboard was there all the way back seven miles, never gave it up except when it became soft sand on the top. I didn't know what I was really getting into on this one, and it became very interesting. 

 Is this the Sheep (above)? And the "table" (below)? I thought, maybe. At least I could call them that.

 The washboard never relented. I had 8 pounds of air pressure in the tires for the upcoming Mickelson Trail, and it was pretty rough. Uphill from the very start, it never flattened out. Yes the sky is really that blue ..... it amazed me. Oklahoma skies are almost gray by comparison.

 A little color along with the mud color, Goldenrod, I believe.

 Up into the hills

 This doesn't look very steep, but it would prove to be the hardest climb I had the entire trip. I have never had my Fatbike onto the small chainring, but I did on this one. A mile and one half to the top, almost all at 2mph and struggling. Very rough with many washouts, it required a slow descent coming back as well.

 More uphill ..... very steep, I didn't think it would ever end. This hill required several "Kodak Moments" to top.

 Almost to the top and the washboard got even deeper, this is about three inches deep here. I tried to stay in the middle, but it didn't help much.

 The constant wind was my only companion.

 This was what it was all about. A forever view of the Badlands below. It was worth the climb after all. If you compare the size of the badlands spires to those at the beginning of my post, you will have some idea of the amount of climbing necessary to get to this vista point.

 A view the other way, just to my left of the above picture.

 A little ways above this vista point was this sign, and the road deteriorating into a two track very sandy trail. It was so sandy, in fact that I could not negotiate through it with the 8 pounds of air pressure in my tires, so I stopped and let out quite a bit of air, down to around 5 pounds. It worked much better in the sand after that.

 There was no cure for the switchgrass that sliced my legs, arms and face, however, and finally I just gave it up and turned around at the 7 mile point.

 The reduction of air pressure had one benefit I didn't think about. All that washboard coming up ....... was gone on the way back. What took me an hour and one half to accomplish to get up here was done in 20 minutes on the way back. Except for the crawl down the big hill, it was 22-24 mph all the way back to the car, and smooth as glass. Fatties RULE!! This ends my little tour through the Badlands of South Dakota. I could have easily spent several days here exploring backroads, but wanted to move on into the Black Hills in the morning after a night's rest in Rapid City.

Two Station Ride

August 27, 2015:

Two Station Ride:

It was a doomed ride from the start! First, it was supposed to happen at 8:30am, then it was changed to 9am, then to accommodate another rider, it was changed to 9:30am. This ride was in Oklahoma City, along the old river trail, onto the new connector trail that connects the old section of the river trail with the Lake Overholser Trail, a connector that has been needed for a long time. So, I got there at about 9:15, and it is already getting hot. No one there yet, no surprise there either. Got ready to ride, and one rider shows up. Spent my time riding over to the Chesapeake Boathouse for a few pictures. This is where the canal boat Bricktown tours originate from, it also houses racing sculls for several colleges and universities. 

The "Grey Ghost" gravel bike with the downtown Oklahoma City buildings in the background

 Chesapeake Boathouse. This place has a small bike shop, rentals, scull storage, scull and kayak sales, a few bike parts, an excersize room, and most importantly, a bathroom and showers.

 Not sure if these are rentals or for sale items, but pedal powered and kinda cute.

 Train crossing the river.

 Never realized how long these crew boats are until you stand next to them. So long and so skinny! One really wonders how they stay upright on the water. Polished with many coats of wax. 
 Finally, we were off!! Only 20 minutes later than our start time. Oh well .... we are moving. For about a mile and then our illustrious leader has a flat. It really is looking more and more like it's just not supposed to happen. Originally, we were going to ride all the way around the circumference of the city, The River Trail, The Two Lakes Trails, and surface streets from Lake Hefner across the northern part of town to connect to the Katy Trail that goes by the Zoo and Museums and then back through downtown to where we started. It's going to get late. I've been wanting to learn how to do this for a long time, just a little afraid of getting lost on a bike and getting off on roads I shouldn't be on. But never fear ..... Fearless Leader will get us through, he knows his way around here. Wait .... what? Fearless leader says he has to get the group (there are five of us) back by 1pm, so we are only going as far as Lake Overholser  and returning the same route. Aw, come ON ..... I've tried to do this one twice before with him and never completed it yet. Well, I'm going! 

  Our group starting out, flat fixed and boogiein' Finally, by this time it was almost 10:30 and now they tell me they have to be back by 1pm. Not going to ride 50 miles in three hours.

 Kent and Connie just a-gettin' it around the corner on the tandem. They also have a mountain tandem they have ridden the Katy Trail in Missouri and the Mickelson Trail in South Dakota with. 

 A dicey road interlude to connect the trails. Heavily traveled in an industrial area, nevertheless, everyone gave us plenty of room.

 Love these old railroad bridges, this one over the new section of trail.

 A view off to the west of the trail

 A convenient Egret

 The old Route 66 Bridge on the north side of Lake Overholser. It was here we all said goodbye. They are all going back, but I was determined to go on. One way or another, I will learn my way around here. All of this part I know, as I've been around both lakes before. So, with mixed feelings, and a bit of trepidation, we parted company, and I started off on my own adventure. 
The connector between Lake Overholser and Lake Hefner is some trail and some surface streets, but not difficult. Soon I was at the Lake Hefner marina, golf course, and parks. Not difficult, and a very pretty ride. It is ...... if you have all your geese in a row that is.

Another photogenic Egret

Lake Hefner Marina. 

I tried to follow my fellow rider's directions only to miss a turn and get lost and off on a very busy thoroughfare with no shoulders and impatient drivers. I went off course about 2 1/2 miles before realizing I should turn around. I did, however stop at a 7/11 for a bite to eat.... this one had fresh cut fruit, a delight. The gas price is a sign of the times, and while certainly not going to be anything permanent, a welcome relief for drivers. It has caused many, many job layoffs in this oil dependent State, however. Getting back to where I made my wrong turn, I decided to head on a couple blocks more and stop at the fire station I had passed earlier.

My water bottles were getting hot and empty by this time, so I headed over to the fire station at the base of the lake. I LOVE fire stations!! Most will let traveling cyclists camp on their grounds, all will fill your water bottles and let you cool off a bit, and they are always willing to show off their equipment, and give you a little tour. This one was no exception, a very nice congenial bunch of people, these fire fighters. So, I left there with two full, well iced bottles and feeling better with some new directions and maybe a better route than the original one I got from my riding friend who abandoned me. This new route took me through mostly upscale residential neighborhoods with small roads and little traffic, a few minor hills, and soon I found myself out in the country again and right at the turns I needed to be.  

 VERY bike friendly roads, in fact. Lightly traveled, and bike signed .....and easily understood ......  well .... mostly ....

 Finding the Katy, right where the fireman said it would be, it took me past the Oklahoma City Zoo, and the Museums, including the Firefighters Museum. I stopped for a couple of pictures and decided that due to the late hour and not wanting to traverse downtown at rush hour, which I had to do to get back to my car, I didn't go in, but saved this for another trip. I'll be back.

 His and hers doggie hydrants ..... how cute!

 I remember when I was a kid I was so impressed with the tail rider on a hook and ladder unit and how I would love to drive that end of the unit. Never did, but still think it'd be fun.

 Restored Katy switcher in new clothes. This was at the Railroad Museum, another place I'm going to come back to when I have more time.

 From restored engine, to this! Loved the vines growing up the side. It's Oklahoma ..... vines grow up anything given enough time, and from the looks of it, there has been plenty of time.

 It would be a long wait for any train on this track.

 One of the several bridges on the Katy Trail

 Another bridge over a pretty little creek.

 The old Jewel Theater, just off the main part of town and at the edge of Bricktown. I'm confident it will be restored someday.

 Both bottles empty, I found another convenient fire station. This one also was happy to fill my bottles and let me cool off a bit. It was now 94 degrees, full sun, little breeze, and high humidity. The real feel temperature was 101. I was way overheated and a bit crampy. They had this wonderfully restored 1910 fire truck, and when I asked if I could look at it, they all about fell over one another to be the first one to show it to me.

 I couldn't help but compare it to a bicycle. Two pedals ...

 Chain Drive

 And a bell to ring to let people know you are coming by.

 And two headlights if you get caught out after dark. These were carbide headlamps, nicely restored units of a type you just don't see anymore. All in all, this was one of my better stops. I left feeling happy, cooler, and iced and refilled bottles. I still managed to make it through downtown before rush hour and back to the car where I loaded the bike, changed clothes, turn the air up to 4 and headed home. A good ride, although a bit frustrating at times, but the nicest people I met along the way got me through and back to my car safely and looking to come back. I don't very often do the big city stuff, but this was a nice ride, and I will get back to the museums another time. Oh ...And .... Three Cheers for the Firefighters! Two Stations got me through a hot, hot ride and gave me good directions as well.